Keeping dwarf shrimp healthy is less about chasing perfect numbers and more about understanding how water chemistry works together as a system. Many shrimp losses come from confusion, over-adjustment, or following fragmented advice online.
This guide explains the core water parameters dwarf shrimp need, why they matter, and how to manage them calmly and safely—without turning your aquarium into a chemistry lab.
What “Water Parameters” Really Mean for Shrimp
Water parameters describe the chemical and physical conditions shrimp live in every moment of their lives. Unlike fish, dwarf shrimp are highly sensitive to:
- Long-term instability
- Sudden changes
- Poor mineral balance
Good parameters support:
- Proper molting
- Strong immune systems
- Reproduction and growth
- Natural behavior and lifespan
Bad parameters often lead to:
- Failed molts
- Lethargy or hiding
- Unexplained deaths
- Breeding failure
Stability matters more than perfection.
The Core Water Parameters for Dwarf Shrimp
Temperature
Temperature controls metabolism, growth rate, and lifespan.
General range
- 20–24°C (68–75°F) for most species
Why it matters
- Warmer water speeds up metabolism but shortens lifespan
- Cooler water slows growth but improves longevity and stability
Key guidance
- Avoid rapid temperature swings
- Consistency is more important than hitting an exact number
Different species (such as Caridina vs Neocaridina) tolerate slightly different ranges, but sudden changes are dangerous for all shrimp.
pH (Acidity / Alkalinity)
pH measures how acidic or alkaline the water is.
General ranges
- Neocaridina: ~6.5–7.5
- Caridina (bee-type): ~5.5–6.5
Why it matters
- Affects enzyme function and respiration
- Influences toxicity of ammonia
- Impacts molting and breeding success
Important note
Chasing pH with chemicals often causes instability. Substrates, water source, and buffering capacity are far more reliable tools.
GH (General Hardness)
GH measures dissolved calcium and magnesium.
Why GH is critical
- Shrimp use calcium to build and shed their exoskeleton
- Too low → molting failures
- Too high → stress and osmotic imbalance
Typical ranges
- Neocaridina: 6–8 dGH
- Caridina: 4–6 dGH
GH is one of the most important—but misunderstood—parameters in shrimp keeping.
KH (Carbonate Hardness)
KH measures carbonate buffering capacity.
What KH does
- Stabilizes pH
- Prevents sudden pH drops
Typical ranges
- Neocaridina: 2–5 dKH
- Caridina: 0–2 dKH
Why lower KH is sometimes preferred
Many soft-water shrimp evolved in environments with minimal buffering. Too much KH can prevent them from thriving, even if pH looks “acceptable.”
TDS (Total Dissolved Solids)
TDS measures everything dissolved in the water—minerals, salts, and organic matter.
Why shrimp keepers use it
- Tracks overall mineral load
- Helps maintain consistency when using remineralized water
General guidance
- Neocaridina: ~180–250 ppm
- Caridina: ~100–160 ppm
TDS does not replace GH or KH testing, but it is a useful stability indicator over time.
Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate
These parameters reflect biological filtration health.
Safe levels
- Ammonia: 0
- Nitrite: 0
- Nitrate: ideally under 20 ppm
Why shrimp are vulnerable
- Shrimp lack protective scales
- Even trace ammonia damages gills and tissues
A fully cycled aquarium is non-negotiable for shrimp.
How These Parameters Work Together
Water parameters are interconnected, not independent.
Examples:
- KH affects pH stability
- GH affects molting success
- Temperature influences toxicity and metabolism
- Substrate influences pH and KH over time
Changing one parameter often shifts others. This is why gradual adjustments and long-term thinking are essential.
Practical Guidance for Managing Shrimp Water
Start With the Right Water Source
- Tap water works for many Neocaridina tanks
- Reverse osmosis (RO) water offers precision and consistency
- Remineralize RO water for Caridina species
Choose a method you can maintain consistently.
Make Changes Slowly
Shrimp handle gradual change well—but react poorly to sudden shifts.
Best practices
- Match temperature and TDS during water changes
- Small, frequent water changes instead of large ones
- Never “correct” multiple parameters at once
Use Natural Stabilizers
- Active substrates for soft-water shrimp
- Inert substrates for hard-water shrimp
- Driftwood and botanicals for mild, natural buffering
Avoid chemical pH adjusters unless you fully understand their effects.
Common Mistakes and Misconceptions
“Perfect Numbers Matter Most”
False. Stable, appropriate ranges matter more than exact values.
“Shrimp Died, So I Must Adjust Something”
Often wrong. Sudden adjustments are a leading cause of losses.
“High TDS Always Means Bad Water”
TDS alone doesn’t indicate toxicity. Mineral balance matters more than the number itself.
“All Shrimp Like the Same Water”
Different species evolved in different environments. Compatibility depends heavily on water chemistry.
Advanced Notes (Optional)
Species-Specific Adaptation
Shrimp bred locally for generations often adapt slightly to local water. Wild-caught or imported shrimp may not.
Long-Term Parameter Drift
Substrates exhaust over time. GH and KH can rise slowly from rocks or tap water. Regular testing prevents surprises.
Molting as a Diagnostic Tool
Frequent failed molts usually point to GH or mineral imbalance—not disease.
Clear Takeaways
- Stability is more important than perfection
- GH and KH matter as much as pH
- Shrimp react badly to sudden change
- Match water to species, not trends
- Let biology and time do the work
Next steps
- Identify your shrimp species
- Test your water source
- Choose a setup that supports long-term stability
- Adjust slowly and observe behavior over numbers
Healthy shrimp are a result of calm, informed care—not constant intervention.